Heli brands and Build threads > Synergy

New Synergy 766 Build

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Thunder Fighter:
Time for another build thread, this time the new Synergy 766. Before I start I will have to apologise that this will be a very long build thread, I'm starting the build now but have to go back overseas next weekend for around 6 weeks so we will see how far I get before I have to have a pause in the build.

Again this is going to mainly a picture build with comments where needed, not a detailed step by step. There is a very good set of videos by one of the Synergy team pilots, Chris Sexton and it takes you through the build a step at a time and the first couple I have watched look to be very informative.

Firstly the setup I plan on using:

766 Orange kit from ARKRC
Rail 766 mains and Rail 116 tails
Scorpion HK4530-450 and Scorpion Commander 160A Opto ESC
12s 5000mah Atom packs
Futaba 273 swash servos and 274 tail
Futaba CGY 750 V2 firmware
Jeti RSat2 Rx with Sbus firmware
2s 2100 Rx pack
Headspeeds 1400/1600/1800 as a starting point

The plan is to set it up as an F3C machine for practice and competition, so I will be looking at some softer damping via the tuneable head as well as fitting the faster tail ratio (when they get to Oz) as the head speed will be kept low. I am also looking forward to the boom cover which is still being developed but should become available in the next couple of months.

It will also be good to try the CGY750 which is one of the preferred FBL units for F3C competition and it will be interesting to compare it to the tweaked Vbar setup I was running on the Trioblin 770 that I was using for F3C before. Jeti have Rx firmware for some of their receivers that output Sbus so it will be interesting to see how well that works and if I can use all of the CGY features with the Jeti.

I have spent tonight downloading and reading the manual and watching the first few videos to get a feel for the build and should get some time to make some progress on it tomorrow so will post an update then.

//Dennis.

Thunder Fighter:
First up as with any model is getting rid of the sharp edges from the carbon. Even though the Synergys have a good finish on the edges it still needs some finishing like every other model. I've started using a couple of diamond files instead of sandpaper, it doesn't get gummed up and I can get into the tight holes and radius bends in the cutouts. I use a standard particle mask and do the work outside as the carbon dust is considered to be harmful if you inhale it.

The carbon looks to be very nice and on such a big Heli there is a fair bit of carbon to file.



Synergy loose assembles nearly everything on the Heli and you need to disassemble and loctite all parts (except bearings which are pre-installed) as you work through the build.

The tail drive gearbox has some very beefy gears in it but also requires good attention to detail as a critical component. As with the other Synergy's you need to make sure the grub screw that holds the pin for the top mushroom gear is able to fully engage on the pin so make sure you remove the pin and run the grubscrew all the way down the hole.

The metal slant gear and its pin should be secured with some green (or red) loctite and left to dry before you assemble the gears.

One other tip is when assembling the standoffs you need to make sure the grub screws are about half inserted into the standoff and gearbox. I put the grubscrew into the box then hold it in place with an Allenkey to stop it screwing in any further while doing up the standoff as you can see in this picture.



The gearbox came up very smooth so I have put the dryfluid gear lube on them as I don't think they will need any time to run in and they are a bit hard to access later.

The main frames build up in a similar way to the othe Synergy models, only trick here is to leave it all loose, drop the main shaft in and make sure it's all square before adding loctite and tightening it all up gradually keeping it on a flat surface and checking it's square.



I like the new swash design, being a bolt together design gives the ability to rebuild easily whereas the old design was a swaged design and was harder to remove slop, although it could be done. Pay attention to the swash as none of the screws or balls have loctite so make sure you disassemble the 8 screws holding the ball and also the pinch screw. When assembled the swash was totally slop free and the ball feels nearly friction free, one of the best I have seen.



This will be my first time trying the Futaba CGY750 FBL and I still have a bit of study to do in how to set it up but I have been able to update it to the new V2 firmware and get it connected with SBus from my Jeti Rx using the optional Rx firmware.



//Dennis.

Thunder Fighter:
Back to the build. As mentioned below I have now fitted the Motor, you do need to supply your own mounting screws so make sure you have some M4 screws on hand for the build. You can also see the Swash servos mounted in the picture.



I have used the supplied arms, but you do need to supply your own Futaba small wheel to mount the carbon arms. The Futaba 273's don't come with those small wheels but luckily I had a set left over from my Futaba 272's fitted to my E5s. On the tail I am using an MKS X8 servo.



The head disassembled and then rebuilt with everything greased and loctite securing the screws. I have gone for less damping than the stock setup, the heli comes with a soft and hard damper for each side and I have swapped them around so the soft is on the outside for my build as it is being setup for F3C flight.



A trick I picked up recently from HeliFreak is to use Chap stick on the threads to make the links easier to put on and adjust. I sometimes use a Tap to start off the threads and make them easier to install but with turnbuckles I can't as I don't have a reverse thread tap. The Chap stick worked well for me so I will be using this trick for future builds. It is great to see turnbuckles on this model, I really like to be able to dial my links to exactly the same length rather than being a half or full turn off. Being a Synergy it is necessary to ream some of the links, and I found about half of them were too tight and needed some work, but the Botos sizer makes it easy to get them right.



//Dennis

Thunder Fighter:
Finally back on the build. Head now fitted and working on the rest of the electronics fitting before moving on to the tail.

ESC mounted with 150A telemetry unit and looking at Rx pack options and fitting positions.



I finished the wiring up on the model and took these pictures of the setup before I buttoned down the ESC tray and put the side covers on.



Rx pack is mounted forward as the model tends to be tail heavy with standard setups and needs the batteries hanging quite far out the front of the frame, which is not really ideal in my opinion. I use 2 6s packs instead of a stick in my heli's and while a stick would work fine, even with the Rx pack mounted towards the front of the heli, my front pack is only half on the tray with the tray in the most forward position. These packs are not light weight either, using 65C 5000mah Atom's. At the moment it is balanced but when I add the boom cover I will have to either add lead, find some bigger packs or make my separates into packs into stick packs. I am glad I used a heavy motor and ESC, otherwise I would really be struggling. I think this is an area where the design could be improved, having the front pack sitting a long way out, when the whole pack can easily fit inside the frames leaves it open to more damage in a crash.



As mentioned this will be an F3C setup so I am trying the CGY750 for the first time. The Jeti system has the flexibility to output SBus from its Rx and once I mapped the channels I have been able to get all functions working, including the new condition menus and remote tail and head gain from the Tx.





I did run into a few issues at the end of the build. For some reason the TT mounts with the o-rings installed were not just very tight, but were almost impossible to insert into the boom. Even with silicone spray and grease and cleaning up the ends of the boom I was not able to get the TT together. In the end I damaged the o-rings trying to insert them and was lucky enough to find some from Bunnings that were slightly smaller diameter and so inserted as I would have expected into the boom. I don't know where the issue was and haven't seen anyone else have a problem, but with the smaller o-rings I managed to get it together.

The other issue was with the tail rod. The instructions show gluing the ends onto the rod before inserting it into the guides. I found that even after cleaning up the small amount of excess glue, that the rod ends did not easily fit through the guides so I had to run a drill though the plastic guides by hand and lubricate before getting them fitted. Not a big issue but I did expect that they might have discussed it in the manual.

So with the model finished and setup complete time to fly.



//Dennis.

Thunder Fighter:
Maiden went well but I did struggle a little with the CGY governor driving the Scorpion ESC. The CGY doesn't have a soft start mode so I had to take the ESC out of external governor mode and put it into Heli - no gov mode to get a soft start back. Then in flight the ESC governor was fighting the tail so I had to drop the governor gain down. After playing with it for a few flights I ended up with the gain dropped so governor not hold head speed but no longer interacting with the tail. In the end I have decided to disable the CGY governor and try out the Scorpion governor which I have read some good reports about.

After 3 packs I was starting to get the gains setup but still have a bit of tuning to do before I can say too much more about how the model performs. It is a bit harder to get a feel for the new model while also getting the feel for a new FBL, anyway after a bit more stick time with it I will report back in.

Ozzy caught a quick pic on the maiden.



Sitting beside my other "big" model, the 800 Protos Max V2.



//Dennis.

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